Showing posts with label Assignment 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Assignment 1. Show all posts

Friday, 20 July 2012

Tutor Comments and Feedback from Ass 1


Just realised I hadn't posted this to my blog, so here is my tutor comments from assignment one (and my responses in italics)


General comments

I see that you want to be assessed and indeed go eventually for the degree. This report is given in that context i.e. degree level one.  Could you please make sure that all works are labelled on the reverse with your name, student number and project /exercise titles. Please identify your assignment piece also.

Feedback on assignment

Project, Basic paint application

Ex, Getting to know your brushes.
As with any piece of equipment brushes can be a positive or a negative when used within the creative process. It is beneficial to keep an open mind on their use and avoid using them in the same way for every painting or part of painting. As with holding brushes it is important to get your painting position right. You should paint vertically using your painting tool at arms length. A work might begin ‘faster’ and then slow as you develop and decisions become more critical. It is important to let a painting breath both in its making and in its final outcome. Vary the sizes of your painting tools and the substrates that you paint on which will also help you to approach your work openly. The apples are reasonable attempts but the brushwork is very tentative on the 2 made with brushes. Try to apply your paint more openly using your paint more plasticly even though applied with brushes. Shadows are a fundamental part of any composition and need to be treated as such and not generalised as you have done here. Shadows are made up of object colour and ground colour and variations thereof; mix off the canvas.

I do find it quite difficult to paint at arm’s length – you feel as if you have less control over the marks you are making (and sometimes you do need to be in close for accurate or delicate work.)  But I keep practising, even though I do find I still tend to get closer and closer when I am painting so have to make a concerted effort to step back.  Re applying paint more openly and plastically, I think this comes with being more confident in your brushstrokes and having the confidence to apply paint more thickly, without dilution.  Yes, I have had some problems with shadows – as you say, they should not just be “an afterthought”.  The research I conducted into various artists and colour theories in assignment 2 has helped me address this so I hope this won’t be too difficult going forward.

Ex, applying paint without brushes
Your tryouts for this exercise are fine but again they are rather tentatively approached. Really experimenting with paint and application would have paid dividends; even painting with your fingers as long as you wear latex gloves. 

Remember there is a reason for doing this exercise in that it demonstrates how media can be used in a more unconventional ways to build paintings literally and use paint opaquely and inventively. Look at some of Clyde Hopkin’s paintings from the 80’s and some of Kiefer’s work.

I struggled to find images of Clyde Hopkins paintings from this date, although I did find some very expressive descriptions of this paintings and their surface structure.  More research here so I can have a proper look.

Anselm Kiefer – there are a number of his works on Bridgeman Education so easy to have a good look at the surface texture and application methods using the zoom function.  I must admit that, although I appreciate the work and thought that has gone into these pieces, I really don’t like most of them.  I find them too heavy, dark and quite depressing – although after reading more closely about his concepts, this is probably what the viewer is supposed to feel.

After I had found some images (both on Bridgeman, and the Saatchi Gallery), I read about Kiefer on Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anselm_Kiefer that précised his style:

“His works incorporate materials such as straw, ash, clay, lead, and shellac. The poems of Paul Celan have played a role in developing Kiefer's themes of German history and the horror of the Holocaust, as have the spiritual concepts of Kabbalah.  In his entire body of work, Kiefer argues with the past and addresses taboo and controversial issues from recent history. Themes from Nazi rule are particularly reflected in his work …”.

“His works are characterised by a dull/musty, nearly depressive, destructive style and are often done in large scale formats. In most of his works, the use of photography as an output surface is prevalent and earth and other raw materials of nature are often incorporated. It is also characteristic of his work to find signatures and/or names of people of historical importance, legendary figures or places particularly pregnant with history. All of these are encoded sigils through which Kiefer seeks to process the past; this has resulted in his work being linked with a style called "New Symbolism."

There are a number of his works in the Saatchi Gallery and, because they are photographed “in situ”, you can really see the huge scale of these paintings. 

Das Wölund-Lied [Wayland's Song] 1982 Oil, emulsion, straw, photograph on canvas with lead wing 280 x 380 cm 

copyright Bridgeman Education
  

 “Monsalvat, 1996 (acrylic, emulsion & shellac on canvas)”

copyright Bridgeman Education
Ex, painting with pastels
This is not painting with pastels; it is a drawing. Really have a go with some oil pastels and see what happens; explore the medium for its full potential.  Geoffrey Rigden uses oil pastels in his paintings often. Because you have used pastels in the drawing course it does not mean that you don’t use them here in a painting context.


I haven’t had chance to do this yet but recently found an article in a magazine about oil pastels and using turps with a rag for blending.  I tried this once at a local college but found the colours became very muddy very quickly – the article I saw just used one colour pastel for a monochrome finish – blending the pastel for background tone, and then using as a stick for detailed mark making and finishing.  Will have to try and get some better quality oil pastels (mine are very cheap ones) and have another go.  I struggled to find any works of Rigdens in oil pastel - everything I could find online appeared to be acrylic so, as with Hopkins above, will try to do more research here.

One artist I did find was Valentina Piacenza http://www.valentinapiacenza.com/pub/paintings_08.htm – particularly her works “unititled” and “Le Parche” because of the strong colours and the mix between the areas blended with turps and those using straight pastel.  I also found a webpage for the Oil Pastel Society– particularly liked the works of two artists: Marie Piemonte and Janice Rangel.

Marie Piemonte’s work was landscape but close up of woods and undergrowth.  Because you cannot zoom in too closely to these works it is difficult to see exactly how the artist achieved certain effects.  In “Door County – Day in the Woods”, you can clearly see the marking on the trunks of the trees but I can’t work out whether they are pastel marks or scraped back.  I think scraped back over layers with when with turps so will have to practise with this effect.  In “Along the Fox River” there are spindles of black twigs – again it looks like these have been dragged slightly into the grey and white background which creates a ghostly effect.

Janice Rangel’s website shows a full range of her work – ranging from still life and landscapes to more abstract works.  I particularly liked Juventa Fons, a semi-abstract work, both for its textured background and solid blocks of red and yellow colour.

Transparent and opaque
These examples are much more expressive and have some good abstract qualities in themselves, even though they are try outs. You have looked at Rothko in reference to these which is great. Have a look at Morris Louis and Helen Frankenthaler also. Mali Morris uses staining in her work also.   The 2 tree pieces are well executed especially the opaque over transparent which has a greater depth to it. The subject is somehow rendered more effectively this way round probably because you ‘found’ the trees rather than painting them directly. It is important to learn from this.

copyright Bridgeman Education
Morris Louis - Blue Veil (acrylic resin on canvas)
This work is very calming, using thin layers of acrylic resin paint in shades of blue, green and complementary red in a fan-like formation from the base of the painting.  The thin layers have a glazing effect – creating a third colour by layering on the canvas.  The artist has made the simple composition more textural by allowing some colours to dry before layering over the top but allow some colours to mix “wet in wet”, such as the red to make a more muted, delicate colour.









copyright Bridgeman
Helen Frankenthaler - Viewpoint II (acrylic)
This painting by Frankenthaler looks more at the contrasts between opaque and transparent paint.  Much of the background is very dilute paint, applied wet to allowed the colours to run and spread on the canvas.  The artist has also introduced a backrun technique her in the lower right corner of the painting.  There are thicker strokes of paint running through the middle (mainly white), although there are lots of other colours in here if you look very closely – pinks, purple, dark blue – which appear to have been dotted or spattered onto the already wet paint and allowed to bleed.  My initial thought when looking at the painting was of a seascape (which it may be, albeit heavily abstracted) with the sea running through the middle of the painting.








Mali Morris’s work is mainly acrylic – with strong coloured streaks of transparent paint over thicker, more matte paint.  I had a look on her website and her work appears to be very much about the paint, and the way it has been applied, which takes precedence over composition, and sometimes even the colour.  Her latest works are a series of transparent paint, applied with a large brush to give a very streaked effect, whether circles, lines or short strokes of the brush.  Within these brushstrokes, small circles of paint appear to have been created by removing the paint layer while still wet and applying a much brighter colour in the void created.  Even after viewing these online a number of times, I’m not quite sure whether I like them or not.  After viewing her website, I visited the RA Summer Exhibition in which she was displaying a number of works (too many in my opinion!).  I found then very repetitive and quite boring – once you had seen one, you had seen them all really.

image from Tate Website
One artist who also exploits the contrast between transparent and opaque textures extremely well is Peter Doig.  I saw his work “Echo Lake” at the Tate Britain last year and was drawn to the way he used very dilute paint, allowing it to run down to create interesting forms.  He also stains the canvas for the tree trunks and some other areas of foliage, and then uses thicker, more plastic paint around the stained area to create interesting effects.













Project, Working on different coloured grounds

Ex, tonal study on a white ground/ Ex Tonal study on a dark ground
The tonal range that you have employed here is wide enough to form the objects in 3 dimensions. However your brush work needs to be much more sympathetic towards shape and form to capture the objects even more successfully. When establishing objects in paint it is often beneficial to lose the defined edges of them to fuse them into the composition; similarly with shadows and how they relate to the ground. I can see that you have looked at Rembrandt and Carravaggio to help you with this so try to assimilate what you see as you paint.  Look at Matisse also to see how he uses colour as tone and shadow; look at some of his fauve paintings from the early 20th century for example ‘Woman with a Soft Hat’ otherwise known as ‘Portrait with a Green Line’ to see how this idea can be translated into full colour.

You need to consider more where objects sit in relation to the whole painting. Composition is a fundamental component of painting which you will do more work on as you progress.  The composition on the one on the dark ground is somewhat awkward but the one on a light ground feels just right. You have looked hard here resulting in 2 reasonably successful pieces. Think about your actual application of paint again here; there is too much smoothing out; it is important to let your colour/tone and brushwork form and build the paintings in an inventive and open way.

I agree re the two compositions – the painting on the light ground was drawn in first and then painted, while on the darker ground, I began painting directly onto the card.  I did find it much more difficult painting from dark to light, and I think this is why the objects aren’t quite right.  Also point re hard edges and too much smoothing of paint – again, I think that is a confidence issue (being the first real composition of the course) and getting used to painting in oils.  I do tend to see things with defined edges and concentrate too much on the shape, rather than the tone, even when drawing so must try to vary my approach more.

The reasoning behind how this course is organised is that having done the exercises and projects you can bring the experience, knowledge and know how into the resultant assignment pieces. This is a very important aspect of the course structure. Assignment pieces should be more ambitious in terms of what you are willing to take on in painting terms whilst still keeping their life and openness.

Good preparatory work is crucial as part of the working process as it inevitably leads to better end results and allows you to get to know your subject matter really well. It is always beneficial to implement good practise at an early stage in your development.

Assignment 1
The reproduction of your assignment piece that you sent me is inadequate; the one on the blog is better but still not satisfactory. I really cannot see it properly; I know it says in the course document that you can do this but for me it remains unsatisfactory. If it is in acrylic another couple of days to let it dry would have been fine.

As I stated in my notes sent, this was done in oils and was not dry as I had been fiddling with it up until the time I posted the assignment, but point taken re the quality of the reproduction sent.

From what I can decipher the painting looks to be ambitious in what it takes on and it looks to be well executed and well observed. The painting looks to have presence and the colour combinations look effective. The brush work looks appropriate to the subject matter and you have given the room and objects an engaging atmosphere.

You have not done enough prep work for this painting. You need more drawings in various media and more colour studies exploring the nature of your subject. These should be on loose sheets so that you can vary the format as well as in the sketch book.  Making at least 2 versions of the assignment piece will pay dividends in the long run and will prevent you being overly precious about what you do and give you some options to select for assessment when that comes round. You should be looking at composition, colour, light and light source and tonal distribution. Exploring your subject very thoroughly in other words. All these aspects need to come together to form a successful painting.  Send me the original with assignment 2.

Thank you for the feedback on this – and noted what you say about doing more prep work to fully explore the nature of the subject.  The problem I have is that I find I lose my enthusiasm completely looking at and repeating (albeit in a different medium/format/composition) the same subject but, as this is a course requirement, I will have to find a way round this.  Perhaps I will need to work on a number of projects at the same time to avoid this – will let you know how I get on.

I will give you some general advice here about both execution and perception.

You do need to look very hard when you paint from life, paint what you see, not what you think that you see. If it doesn’t look right you need to alter, re work, re look until you get your subjects operating in 3 dimensions/space effectively.

Try not to respect the edges of objects/parts of views too much especially when working more tonally. Merging these areas more will help the object sit better in space and relate more pertinently to the ground. Let shadows peter out rather than abruptly stopping and break the line between object and ground. Work more openly in other words.

Vary the speeds that you work as working quicker can often open up new ways of seeing as can holding your painting implements differently.

Quickly executed paintings can be good and bad. Paintings made more slowly likewise.

It is the intent and nature of the outcome in reference to what your subject is and the quality of the execution itself that matters.

Work on the relationships of one object/parts of a view (seen or imagined) to another and then to the whole, DO NOT concentrate on irrelevant details too soon which can be distracting to the whole composition.

Try to apply your paint much more boldly where necessary

Find equivalents in terms of handling and inventive brush work for what you are looking at or imagining.

Work vertically as I have already mentioned, especially when working above A3 size, holding your implements between thumb and forefinger i.e. NOT like a pen when you write.

It is imperative that you LOOK HARD at all times at your subject; look, paint, alter, paint again, change, look, you need to build up a dialogue between yourself, the subject and the paint and the painting.

All very good comments and will endeavour to incorporate into what I do in future. Ones I picked up on most (ie I know I have a habit of doing!) are your comments about concentrating on small details too soon; and respecting edges too much/shadows being too abrupt (already addressed above). 

Also tried holding painting implements between thumb and forefinger – have tried this a few times now and, although it is quite difficult to get used to (uncomfortable on the hand and arm) I can see the benefits to applying paint in this way.

Sketch books

Your sketch book is not enquiring enough in a real sense at this stage. You are going through the motions to an extent here. Sketch books need to have focus and intent in how they relate to what you do and be a real help to your practice.

You need to be doing more work in your sketch book to augment your creative practice. Studies using a variety of media, on different scales and with a variety of approaches will enhance the work that you do in the projects and assignments. Doodling is good to tease out ideas and subconscious thoughts. You are writing far too much in the sketch book; this can short circuit the visual processes which you need to develop at this stage. I would avoid sticking in cut out images also; this looks too much like a scrap book and to an extent looks like filling pages.

Learning logs/critical essays

A learning log/blog is a professional document to assist you in your learning and to some extent give you a context.

A learning log should contain objective writings about your work, analytical and comparative is best with comments on ‘what have you achieved’. It needs to have in it the set theoretical studies and research points. Evidence of artists and work that you have looked at and art that you have seen annotated where necessary. Import images of other artists work also as you have been doing as well as your own. The learning log is there to help you develop as a practitioner. It has to be more than just a simple narrative.

A learning log is a professional document to assist you in your learning and to some extent give you a context.

Your blog is well presented and is clear. The research is thorough and you use images well to augment what you are talking about. Comment more on the qualitative outcomes of what you do; compare one piece/version to another.

Try to assimilate what you look at into your own practice.

Suggested reading/viewing

Look at the artists that I have suggested in the report and put your findings in your learning log saying what you think and how you could maybe use ideas and ways of doing things that you see in your work. Look at Manet, Pissarro, Bonnard and Vuillard, Monet, Van Gogh and Cezanne all of whom will be of great benefit to you whilst doing this course.

Other

Overall this is a reasonable first assignment with plenty of scope for improvement as you progress. You have the wherewithal to be successful at this level but you need to take on board advice in this report and learn from the successes in your own work which you need to recognise and build on.

I know that you want to go for assessment and from your records I can see that you have been successful at Drawing 1 and Understanding Western Art. You do have the wherewithal to be successful on this course also but avoid short circuiting your creative processes at all costs. You have more chance to fully reach your potential that way.



Monday, 6 February 2012

Assignment One

While finishing off my studies on darker grounds, I began assignment one.



For this assignment we are asked to produce a painting of at least A3 in a subject and medium of our choosing – a still life, landscape or interior are suggested.  I decided to paint an interior scene from my house – it is a little cold for landscapes at present (January!) and having just painted two still lifes, decided the interior of a nice warm house would be a good option!

My final assignment for the drawing course was based on interiors, and required me to do sketches all around the house.  One room I particularly liked drawing was my study (although I did not use this for my final drawing).

My study is quite traditional, as we have lots of books, and has a dark green leather desk and captain’s chair in one corner, with bookshelves and a dark, racing-green, button-back wing chair in the corner.  It was this corner I decided to paint.  It is quite a cosy corner – a friend who visited at Christmas said she just wanted to curl up in the chair and read a book.  That is the emotion and image I wanted to get across in this painting.

I began this assignment by completing a drawing using my Rotring art pen – I prefer to do initial sketches in pen as I think it stops you fiddling too much; you can’t rub out so you have to observe more closely and just ‘get on with it’.   And because you can add water to the ink with the Rotring pen, this allowed me to get a general idea of the basic tonal values.  I like this composition – because it’s a corner, you get a sense of perspective and interesting angles created by the bookshelves.  I think you also get the idea this is an intimate space – my only concern here was the cropping of the chair, so decided to do a sketch which included the whole chair (drawn sitting on the floor).

All sketches in sketchbook one, marked with blue flags.



The second sketch I completed sitting in a chair from the same corner and, again, I completed this in pen but left it as a linear drawing.  I expanded the scene slightly to include the bottom of the chair and the edge of the fireplace (marble and wood with a chrome edging).  This allowed me to add more detail in the sketch and, thinking ahead to the colours of the painting, brought in the fireplace wall which is a deep, reddy terracotta colour.  It also brought in the glass vase on the edge of the fireplace which is an interesting swirled pattern in green and white.  I completed this in daylight so, again, the light is coming from the opposite site of the chimney breast.   Keeping the chair central to the composition, I think, gives the best angles to include all the background scene and bookcases. 


My only concerns with the objects here are the two music systems on the shelves behind the chair in the corner.  One is matt black and the one on the shelf above is silver, so they don’t really go with the overall warm (brown and green) tones of the rest of the painting, so I may remove these and place other objects on the shelves to add more interest.  The shelves directly above the chair actually contain objects that will be interesting to paint:  the top shelf has a large glass orb and two brass candlesticks; the shelf below has three elephants (two glass and one mahogany); and the shelf below has a Vietnamese brass drum in front of the hi-fi (which I will probably exclude).  I have quite an interesting glass vase on another shelf in the study so I will probably place this on the shelf directly above the chair. 

The shelves immediately behind and to the side of the chair are very shaded so will add good, dark contrasts behind the chair.  



I want to study the chair and the vase further so will do individual studies of these.

Although this view is already quite cosy and intimate, I wanted to add more of a feel of warmth and, based on my research on chiaroscuro (especially Joseph Wright of Derby), I felt adding a warm glow would improve the scene.  I have a desk lamp with a yellow glass shade so, although the bulb is clear, this does add a very warm glow when in use, so I placed this on the fireplace, shining down towards the chair as a reading lamp.  I may even place an open book on the chair to give the impression someone will soon be returning to carry on reading here.

The next sketch I did was a detailed study of part of the leather chair (in graphite – 20 mins).  This was to carefully look at the effect of the padding/buttoning on the back of the chair and to study the highlights/creases/folds in the leather.  On looking carefully, I especially noted the tonal differences in the leather – not just because of the buttoning, but the lighter areas created by sitting in the chair, and rubbing some of the dye out of the leather.



I then added my table lamp to the view and did a small study of the effect of that light on the bookshelves.  As the light is centrally placed in the view, I found that the lamp cast shadows both upwards and downwards, and created much darker shadows and tonal contrasts.  The effect was probably greatest on the shelves –the top of the ‘box’ created by the shelves/ underside of shelves – where the lamplight casts darker shadows.  This effect was also seen in the shadows cast by the ornaments against the underside of the shelf above and created some interesting dark areas.  The lamp also increased the darkness in the shelves directly behind the chair and the tonal contrasts on the leather of the chair.  Looking down the scene, the vase is more reflective and casts an interesting shadow on the floor.



Looking at the colours in this view, they are fairly muted hues - the dominant colour is the green of the chair (also in the vase).  The chimney breast is terracotta which will add a contrast against the green, as will the light oak colour of the bookcases themselves.   The yellow lamp adds a warmth to the view and also gives reflections off the glass of the cabinet doors.  The books themselves are a multitude of colours – but I will probably simplify these to avoid distracting the eye from the chair.

I think I will try to make the chair (and the vase) the main detail in this painting by completing these in more detail than the rest of the scene.  If you are looking directly at an object (say the chair) the farther away from it an object is, the less it is in focus and/or detail, so I hope to be able to depict the top levels in less detail than the lower ones and the area directly around the chair.



Colour study in my sketchbook using watercolour for speed.

For this painting I wanted to use as much as possible of what I have learnt so far in this section and so quickly reviewed the exercises:

I need to think about brush strokes and mark-making: this has always been a bit of a struggle for me as I tend to concentrate more on the form, colour and detail of an object/scene rather than the mark-making.  So, I should think carefully about how I could use my different brushes to paint this scene successfully and interestingly!

Don’t think I will apply the paint without brushes here as the scene is quite detailed and using palette knives/other implements, I feel, would be better suited to a more expressive painting.





·         Transparent v opaque paint/overlaying washes.  Transparent layers over a light or pale ground give a very pure, bright colour and can make the paint almost glow.  I think it would be good to paint the chair, lamp and vase in transparent layers as this would make them stand out from the darker areas in the background.  I will probably need to use white and/or opaque mixes for the books, and also for the colours on the wall and floor to give a matt effect.  Transparent dark tones over paler opaque ones would also be a good way to create the shadows as the original underlayer would show through.




 
Chiaroscuro – this will not be a major element in this painting, although I do like strong contrasts.  The strongest contrasts will probably be on and around the chair (with the light shining on it and the shadows that produces) which will also have the effect of drawing the eye to that area of the painting.





Coloured grounds – As it states in the handout notes, a warm ground is most often used in interiors, so I will do some tests in my sketchbook to see which colours would work best.  A yellowish tone would obviously be an option here (either a clear yellow or ochre).  The other option would be to use a darker ground as the painting will be lit by lamplight rather than daylight.  I think if I did this, I would have to decide, in advance, which areas (probably chair, light and vase) to keep white in order to allow the brilliance of the transparent layers to show through.  I will do these studies in acrylic (mainly for speed) so I can decide in advance which approach to use.





     First coloured ground for study – cad yellow light and cad yellow medium with a hint of ochre.





      Second coloured ground to study (purple and raw umber) actually much more of a maroon colour than this photo – has come out a bit light.





S